m认为,创造力是成功的关键,它需要努力学习及漫长的时间。他认为,"any creative craft is a reflection of the person doing it." 纪录片主要从以下几个方面展现优秀厨师具备的素质以及m独特的创造力:
1.强烈的使命感 :"the only way for traditions in food to be kept alive is to let them adapt , because if you keep them in museum, they will eventually die out……and my job is to keep the original alive in a way that people can actually understand." 这是他价值观的基石,也是他坚持创新的本源。
2.细心、力求完美 : "I notice everything that happens in the kitchen because I was there to develop them.",“在一流的餐厅里,你没有机会把菜做第二次,一切都必须完美。”
之二,敢为人先:m摒弃了其他餐厅使用肉牛做菜的传统,转而采用奶牛,在他第一次用奶牛肉做菜时发现 :"it(the meat of dairy cow) had a depth of flavor……you will have much more flavor, much more texture and more natural marbling (自然的霜降油花)。探入这片别人未曾发现的鲜地,他特别激动:"it’s very exciting when you kind of hit that moment where you realize that you’ve onto something , when you realize that there is knowledge that’s just lying there in the open, it’s just that no one is using it."
之三,颠覆传统:m摸索出一套管理厨房的独特模式(有点“倒退”的模式)。传统大餐厅的模式是实习生或新人负责择菜等基础工作,接下来有不同的人做层层准备工作,大厨则负责最后的装盘(stand and take plate)。在这样的模式中,最“底层”的人无需承担什么责任;然而,在Fäviken,有一个人做提示并控制整个流程,实习生负责与前者衔接,大厨则亲自做菜。他认为:在上菜之前最好不要有层层的分工(filter),这样每个人都会在一开始就力求完美。
之四:敏锐直觉:但m也指出,管理厨房其实并不难,难的是抓住将餐厅与食客关系更推进一步的契机(像谈恋爱进阶那样):"to be able to see when you’re crossing the line with the eater and also to be able to see when you need to push them." 基于这种“引导食客”的思路,他选择了“品尝菜单模式”(tasting menu format)-即在两个半小时的就餐过程中为客人奉上30道菜。他表示,只要上菜频率控制得当, "no one thinks about being too quick, it’s just delicious.”说起选择这种方式的原因,他的回答是:“这是展现食物的最好方式。”(the foremost expression of food)
年轻时的m,和很多小地方长大野心勃勃的年轻人一样,不愿待在家乡。虽然他成长的地方环境优美,食材丰富,但他却不以为然, " I never appreciated them for that it's just part of everyday life." 当他逐渐成长,在大城市经历了事业起伏之后,一次偶然的机会让他回到家乡工作,并重新发现了各种美妙绝伦、他处无觅的食材。当然,m 并没有否定他在大城市的工作经历,正是他在巴黎的第一份工作(L'Astrance 餐厅,米其林一星)让他明白,好的食材才是美味的关键, "the dish will never be better than the produce, 正是食材决定了一道菜是“good”还是“fantastic”。
m曾固执地认为,最好的食材在法国。而今,他饱含深情地说: "I have to back, it’s still exactly the same place, it's just that I see it differently."
正所谓:蓦然回首,那人却在,灯火阑珊处; 看待事物的方式而不是事物本身决定了一切。
M的出版商Emilia给予了他最高评价:
He completely reversed the game, instead of saying" I want to open a restaurant in New York," he created the best restaurant in the middle of nowhere, where everybody will come.
画外音-基本信息介绍
餐厅荣誉:Ranked the 25th best restaurant in the world (fromWiki, 2016)
所属菜系:New Nordic cuisine (from Wiki)
餐厅特点:餐厅共有12张桌子,“品尝菜单模式”-两个半小时为食客奉上30道菜。
餐厅经典:杜松枝烤扇贝(scallop cooked over burning juniper branches)